– The ventilation grille of the dryer clogged up with dirt. so,
– If the hose comes off the exhaust hood or separates almost anywhere, it can be and usually is a sign of excessive back pressure. The result of airflow restriction.
– Make sure that the fan casing and internal ventilation of the machine also do not contain excess liquid. so,
– The gas valve solenoid doesn’t work.
– The heating element doesn’t work. – The lint filter might be clogged.
– The humidity sensor is defective. so,
– The thermostat with a high limit is faulty.
– The thermistor is faulty.
– The thermistor or thermostat has failed.
– The ventilation hole is clogged or small pieces of clothing are wound on the blades of the mechanism. so,
– The heater broke. so,
– Refused timer – the regulator sends incorrect signals to the motor and the dryer does not turn off. The solution is the replacement of broken parts. so,
– The filter is polluted with fluff, as a result of which the air flow is weakened. The solution is to clean the filter. so,
– The humidity sensor sends erroneous information to the control board, because of which the device does not stop.
– Drying is not connected to the mains, the socket or plug is broken.
– Oxidized contacts in the electrical circuit.
– The fuse has blown. Exit – installing a new one. so,
– Faulty thermistor.
– The device does not start to dry due to the lack of mains voltage. – Start delay is on. – The condensate collection tank is full.
– Faulty door lock hatch. The output is a change in the broken mechanism. – The motor of the device is blown. The solution is the restoration of the working capacity of the faulty mechanism.
so,– The temperature regulator is faulty.
so,– The dryer does not start because of a broken power switch.
– The electric motor jammed or burn. – If the electric motor works, but the drum does not rotate, the motor capacitor most likely has failed.
– The program startup timer has been set.
– Rollers that support the front of the drying drum, or the rear bearing, have failed.
– The axles to which the rollers are attached worn.
– The belt of the drying drum is damaged or stretched.
– The heating element is defective.
– The problem of air flow.
– The thermostat is faulty.
– The sealant is damaged around the dryer.
When your dryer won’t work, check to see if it is unplugged or if a circuit breaker has been tripped. You may also have a bad thermostat, damaged terminal block, or broken start switch.
– There was oxidation of contacts on the control board, which leads to a short circuit. so,
– Simultaneously with the dryer, there are energy-consuming consumers of electricity – a boiler, an electric stove, a washer
– The machine is knocked out due to a failed outlet or a malfunctioning power plug of the device. so,
– It cuts down the machine due to a short circuit in the heating element. The solution is a change of the heating device, the heater.
– You use too weak fuse, which are not designed for this current.
– Shortage of the windings of the electric motor.
The belt of the drying drum is extended and the device produces a specific whistling sound. Therefore,
– Also, the dryer knocks and hums due to a faulty bearing.
– Small coins have come between the seal and the body. so,
– Drying costs with a skew, because of what the drying drum touches the wall of the case or other elements, spreading an unpleasant knock. – There are too many things and the balancing of the drying drum has been disturbed.
– The rollers of the drying drum were worn out. so,
– The Dryer has not been used for a long time, therefore the rollers of the drum have lost their former shape.
– In the drum put a lot of clothing or it is not properly sorted. so,
– The filter was clogged. so,
– The air duct is dirty or twisted so that the heated air is not supplied to the drum.
– The machine does not heat up due to a faulty thermostat or thermistor.
– The equipment does not heat because of the incorrectly set operating mode.
– Faulty heater. so,
– The control module is defective.
– The timer has failed.