– The washer is overloaded with a lot of things.
– Torn drive belt.
– The drum is jammed with a foreign object.
– The heater is faulty.
– Wear of bearings.
– The motor is faulty.
– Defective electronic module.
– Malfunction of the water supply valve.
– Siphon valve malfunction or missing.
– Blockage of the drainage system.
If you notice excessive vibration, your washer may not be leveled properly or could be located on a weakened wood floor. Worn damper pads or snubber pads may also be to blame.
– The bolts intended for transporting the machine have not been removed from the tank attachments. so, – The bearings of the drum drives are damaged. – Stuck objects in the space between the walls of the tank and the drum. so,
– The pulley, the drive system of the drum, is loose. so,
– The tank’s counterweights are poorly fixed.
– The rubber seal of the hatch cover is not fitted to fit. so,
– The washing machine is not installed correctly.
The connecting pipe (between the tank and the pump) is clogged with debris. so,
– There was an extraneous thing in the pump.
– The filter of the pump (pump) is clogged with debris. so,
– The pump broke.
– Clogged sewer or siphon.
– Hose clogged through which water is drained.
In most cases, this is caused by a tripped, off-balance switch from an imbalanced load that can be easily rectified by redistributing clothes. Otherwise, you may have a problem with the timer circuitry or your outlet, which our professionals can take care of.
– The hinges on the door have skewed and the tab of the fixing device does not fit into the groove.
– Probably, the lockout device of the hatch has failed.
– Garbage has got into the lockout device.
– The control module is defective.
There are many causes for no agitation including a worn drive belt, agitator assembly, wigwag plunger/lifter, transmission mode lever, or drive spindle. It may also be caused by a bad internal timer contact, bad lid switch, or malfunctioning pressure switch.
Excess soap, loose hoses, drain pipe clogs, and leaking pumps, tubs, or tub water injection hoses could be to blame for leaks and other similar damage.
– Probably, in this case, the pressure tube (hose) (water level sensor) has flown, clogged or damaged. so,
– The chamber of the pressure tube is clogged up with scum and mud.
– The water level sensor itself has failed.
– The electronic controller (control module) is defective. During the bay, the controller does not give the command to stop the water set, and it continues to enter the washer.
– The filling valve is out of order. He jammed in the open position, so the water enters the washer constantly, and she can not finish the program.
– The washing machine door is not fully closed or the door lock is faulty;
– The drain pump system is faulty;
– Brushed motor brushes;
– The electronic module is faulty;
– The water level sensor broke;
– The work of the tan is broken;
– The machine is overloaded with plenty of laundries;
– Damaged drive belt
– There was a serious breakdown in the engine.
– Put too much laundry in the drum, or put it wrong.
– The wrong washing mode is selected.
– There are problems with the electrician of the washing machine (sensors, wires, terminals).
– There are problems with the electronic control unit of the washing machine.
– The leakage protection system was activated.
– Do not properly lock or unlock the door.
– There is a serious breakdown of the most important machine units: engine, heating element or drain pump.